Kayak fishing has exploded in the industry over the past 7 years. Of course, this sport has been around longer, but the appeal has grown tremendously over the recent years as the tournament scene has heated up and presented anglers with numerous options to get involved and compete. With growth in any industry, the parallel is always the development of new products to support the demands of consumers within that industry. I would love to talk about all the amazing products available for kayak anglers, but for the sake of this article we are going to look at how lithium batteries have changed the game for anglers, like me, fishing out of a 150 lb. kayak.
 
The number one consideration for kayak anglers adding any accessories to their boats is weight. Most kayaks are rated with lower maximum weight capacities vs. larger aluminum and fiberglass boats, so extra attention must be put on keeping weight low and evenly distributed. The accessories that you add to a kayak boil down to two main categories: motors and then everything else. These include depth finders, lights, and any other necessary needs. Let’s focus on motors.
                                        
Motors on kayaks are all electric and are typically powered by their own independent power source. These come in various 12V and 24V options with a couple 36V options beginning to make their debut. Regardless of which option an angler may choose they are adding quite a bit of weight to their kayak. For example, a bow mounted MotorGuide Xi3 will add roughly 45lbs and a Newport Vessels Nk180 stern mounted motor will add around 20 lbs. of additional weight.

​​From here the most important decision is made. Lead Acid or Lithium. Right off the top a good LiFePo4 option like the Battle Born Batteries 12V 100AH is only going to add an additional 31lbs. of weight compared to 60-80 lbs. for lead acid. You can immediately see the benefit there. Cutting the battery weight in half allows you to distribute the weight more evenly and even lends to keeping your vessel safer.
 
Generally, in aluminum or fiberglass boats, the boater will have a gas powered outboard to power the angler to their desired destination and once there they will deploy and use their trolling motor for boat position management. For kayak anglers, the motor serves more than one purpose. The single electric motor will provide a power source to get the angler to their desired destination more quickly and then provide boat position management once there. This is a good segway into the additional benefits of lithium over lead acid.
 
With lead acid, the user is likely to have access to 70-80% of the batteries’ available power. As the lead acid battery is used it will push out less amps ultimately reducing the power output of the motor throughout the single charge. With a LiFePo4 from Battle Born Batteries the user will gain consistent power output up until total depletion of the battery. The user will also appreciate access to the batteries’ full capacity giving the user the availability to go the extra distance. 20% less power may sound like a reasonable sacrifice to save some money going with lead acid, but in my experience my success in fishing has come down to that last 20%.
 
I tend to think most understand the value of lithium over lead acid, but typically the decision boils down to cost. Now, kayak anglers have a little leg up against big boat users simply because we only need one battery vs. 2-3. This lowers our financial investment drastically. Throw in the estimated 3000-5000 cycles on a single lithium battery, like the BB10012, you won’t be replacing a battery for a very long time making your investment well worth it and really a no brainer.
 
As a professional kayak angler competing in the big tournament circuits, I use both 12V and 24V motors for different purposes. For my 12V MotorGuide Xi3 I am using the BB10012 (12V 100AH) option. I have logged over 12 miles on a single charge in a single day and trust me I’m not going light on the throttle. This motor has anchor mode which uses GPS location positioning to hold my spot in current and wind which also adds to the power consumption. I primarily use this motor when I am fishing offshore. For my shallow water fishing or making long runs I reach for the 24V Newport Vessel NK180. This brushless motor is more efficient than the MotorGuide and excels in powering through vegetation. It also hosts a kick up feature which will kick up over stumps, rock, and any other obstacles I may encounter in the shallows. For this motor I use the BB1250 (24V 50AH). I have logged over 15 miles on a single charge over the course of two days in practice for a tournament. 

Summing It Up
I have been involved in this sport long enough to see the trends come and go. Lead acid was initially a means of saving a few dollars, but ultimately determined that it has no place in kayak fishing. We need the most power out of a single battery with as little weight added as possible. The Battle Born Batteries LiFePo4 options have served me very well over the years and in fact have been a staple for me in locating and finding fish to land major successes out on the trail. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact the talented sales team at Battle Born. They will point you in the right direction for your needs. Stay safe. Get Out There and Stay Out There. Most importantly, have fun.

When it comes to equipment, I believe kayak anglers may inflict slightly more abuse on their gear than anglers in traditional boats. It’s just the nature of the sport really. Kayak anglers often have rods standing up behind us that get tangled in overhanging trees or get smacked in the back swing of a cast. As anglers we ask a lot out of our equipment, and when it comes to fishing rods durability is just as important as weight, action, and sensitivity.
In this article I want to give my honest and full review of the Proteus line of rods from Little Miami Outfitters.


About LMO
Owned by kayak pro Brandon Palmer, the Proteus line of rods were created with a goal to make high quality rods with actions that offer anglers multiple presentation opportunities. In today’s market you often find companies that build their rod lineups to offer very technique specific options resulting in a slew of rods for the consumer to choose from. Deriving from his experience in a kayak he found this can often result in overcomplication and lead to excess clutter in an already confined space to work in. This doesn’t just apply to kayak anglers either. Many bass boat anglers have no desire to own 30 rods to choose from and prefer a more simplified approach.


​The Design
Built on a 30-ton Mitsubishi Japanese Carbon blank these rods offer durability, sensitivity, and lightweight handling that are true from cast to catch. The blanks offer strong backbones which give you the power to drive those hooks deep, and with a fast/ moderate action tip you can be rest assured those fish have the give they need to inhale your bait while still giving you the sensitivity to detect it. I have found this type of action to work very well with moving baits such as chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, and buzzbaits. However, the 7ft MH has become one of my favorites for skipping jigs under boat docks as the action is perfect for this technique, and the 7’3 MH is fantastic for dragging Texas rigs through brush piles offshore.

​I have come to find that these rods work very well with baits from ¼ oz. up to ¾ oz. which offers the angler a wide variety of lure options. I was particularly impressed with the fact that I can still throw a ¼ oz spinnerbait and the rod does not feel overpowered for this lighter presentation meaning the rod works in my favor in making precise casts to targets.


Components
The Fuji ceramic guides result in smooth casting and excellent line protection and in my opinion are the perfect size. Not too large of guides which can increase coil memory and not too small which can be damaging to braid to leader applications where the knot needs to move freely through the guides. The spinning rods utilize the microwave guides which increase line flow and casting distance.

The American Tackle reel seat offers excellent sensitivity that can be felt with the lightest bites while also boasting an attractive carbon fiber look for the overall appearance of the rod. I absolutely love the reel tensioner. Its big enough which provides you enough torque surface to hand tighten and loosen easily while others that are smaller have you reaching for the pliers to release your reel.

Personally, I’m typically partial to cork or WINN style grips but the customized split EVAs that come on these rods are comfortable and allow the angler functional control of the rod during wet and dry conditions. The engraved LMO logo in the grips are a nice touch as well and to me just say they put thought and time into these rods.
Rounding out the design is a solid hook keeper positioned on the backside of the rod which in my experience presents as a better placement than on the front especially for those larger sized lures.


Weight and Durability
When it comes to the weight of a rod this can be a big deal breaker for me. I want a rod that is lightweight but not so much that I feel like I may snap it with a good hookset. The Proteus line of rods hosts a perfect balance. They are lightweight which make them comfortable to fish with all day and not fatigue, but the feel of the rod in your hands demands respect. The high modulas graphite blank feels of quality and gives me the confidence to lean into them when I need to. 

Going back to the topic of abuse, I have personally put rods in places they were not designed to go. I was fishing the Hobie BOS tournament at Pickwick lake this September. The water levels were down a little and in the fall time I love throwing a spinnerbait around docks. I had made a cast under a dock and got hung up on the opposite side in a support board. There was enough space for me to go under the walkway of the dock in my Hobie to retrieve my lure, but as I started my ascend to the other side, I realized one of my Proteus rods was still standing up behind me. There was no backing out or grabbing it at this point, and I was sure the rod was about to snap in half as it was bent over more than halfway down the rod. To my surprise it didn’t but instead found a crack in the bottom side of the walkway and sprung back up into place without damage. I was completely shocked but in awe at the durability. These rods are tough.


​Wrapping It Up
Fishing rods are one of the most important tools we have between us and the fish were chasing. Sensitivity, durability, weight, and rod components are all aspects that differentiate one rod from another. The Proteus line of rods have checked all those boxes for me this year and honestly, I’m glad I’ve had them. I caught my personal best (10lbs) on the 7’3 MH throwing a lipless crankbait in the spring, and I won the last tournament of the year securing Angler of the Year throwing a buzzbait on the 7’0 MH. If you are in the market for a high-quality rod that you can count on, I would recommend the Proteus line. You won’t be disappointed. Check them out at  or www.LittleMiamiOutfitters.com.
 
Justin Patrick

The way I see it, short of creating something that’s completely in its own category, companies can take two approaches in product development. Take an already existing idea and add their own unique twist to it or take an already existing idea and develop a reputation of quality.

Neither route is better than the other and, in many cases, we see success with both approaches when coupled with a strong marketing plan and proven fish catchability. One product that doesn’t leave much room for ingenuity is hooks. A hook is a hook, right? From the naked eye different brands of hooks may look the same but it’s the tiny details put into production that make all the difference.
Proven Quality Production

​Right off the top Kitana Hooks are made utilizing a chemically sharpening process. Something to do with the hook dipped in acid etc. etc. That field is not really in my realm of expertise, but from my understanding this process produces a superior product in both strength and sharpness when done right. If you would like to read more on the details, I suggest going to the article at the URL below. It enlightened me to how it works.
https://trophytechnology.com/when-should-you-replace-the-hooks-on-your-favorite-bait/
Kitana Hooks come in an array of options for all your technique specific needs. Sizes are also plentiful to choose from as well as different gauged wire. Meaning you have standard wired and heavier duty wired options for those times when you’re around the bigguns.

The treble hooks have particularly grabbed my attention since crankbaits are a staple in my arsenal. I can drag a worm all day and won’t necessarily be too worried about dulling an offset worm hook, but when you’re cranking pea gravel or chunk rock it’s vital to have quality hooks that won’t dull quickly. 

For tournament anglers’ dull hooks could result in losing fish when it matters the most. Not something a competitor really wants to gamble with. They need everything working for them not against them.
“THESE HOOKS DON’T LET GO”
Coupled with razor-sharp points, the tips are curved inwards slightly. What this generates is something of a “locking in” effect. It’s going to grab those fish and help keep them pinned. They really do take a beating and maintain their sharpness too. I have gone all day and not had to change my hooks once. For my pocket book that’s a plus. 

​I really want to emphasize just how sharp these hooks are. Truthfully, I’m overly cautious and a little nervous when I’m changing out trebles on my crankbaits using this brand. Which hasn’t really been the case before. I gauge when I need to change out my hooks by slightly rubbing the hooks over the inside of my hand. If the hooks catch my skin and don’t want to let go, they are good, if they pull loose easily or don’t catch at all, I change them. THESE HOOKS DON’T LET GO. They almost seem too sharp. Not a bad problem to have.
What I’m trying to do is somewhat replicate a fish swatting at my bait and its mouth or skin barely hitting my hooks. I want those hooks to snag that fish. This isn’t a sport of freebies. Will I ever lose a fish on these hooks? Probably, just because it is prone to happen on any bait and with any hooks. Honestly though, I haven’t experienced that yet. 

​Whether you’re taking up kayak fishing or just kayaking in general your safety should be your top priority. Kayaks these days, particularly fishing kayaks, are very advanced and built for stability, but even the most stable kayaks and experienced kayakers can still have accidents that won’t come with much warning. Most accidents happen so quick and are typically not at the anglers’ fault but simply crazy circumstances that you probably aren’t planning for. Having your PFD on is not only required by most state laws but is highly recommended to ensure your safety and should be taken seriously. However, when you are fishing from a kayak, you’re performing tasks that require mobility and flexibility, so choosing the right PFD is essential to not only your success on the water but also your comfortability. Let’s walk through the different options.
 
Vest Style PFD
These styles of PFD’s have many benefits to them and depending on the brand are built to offer the angler storage capabilities in the form of zippered pouches and accessory attachment points. The design of these PFDs are also equipped with floatation material built into the vest itself, so upon entering the water you are immediately supported and will float back to the surface. The benefit of this is if you are unconscious or otherwise uncapable of managing yourself the vest needs nothing to do it’s job and keep you afloat until you are able to regain yourself back on your kayak or dry land. All vest style PFDs come with multiple adjustment points to suit your specific body size. A lot of anglers prefer these vests as well because of the storage opportunities. In the event you are tossed overboard you may lose contact with your boat, especially if you are in current, so having a pouch to store your phone could be critical in the event you need to call for help. Always consider that the worse thing possible could happen at any point in the blink of an eye and being prepared ahead of time could potentially be the difference maker in you regaining your safety. If you are a beginner kayaker or otherwise do not have much experience in water, I would highly recommend this style of vest for the benefits mentioned.
Pros:

1. Immediate floatation
2. Accessory pouches
3. Multi point adjustments

Cons:

1. Can be bulky
2. Price can be higher

Recommended Vests:
Astral Designs, NRS Chinook, Hobie Fish Thinback

​Inflatable PFD
The inflatable PFD is designed with an internal inflatable compartment that uses a c02 cartridge to fill it. To inflate the compartment, you have two options. Depending on the make and model you can set the PFD to auto inflate when water is detected, or you can utilize a draw chord to pull and engage the cartridge thus inflating the PFD. Right off the bat the inflatable PFD is noticeably leaner in its design than the vest style. They still offer multi point adjustments, but you lose the storage capabilities of its competitor. The appeal to these types of vests are mostly the lack of bulk resting on your chest and back. When fishing from a kayak you are performing tasks from the seated position mostly, so some anglers find that the inflatable PFD allow them more mobility to perform these tasks. As mentioned above when accidents occur, we unfortunately don’t get to choose the way these situations unfold and what they intel. Hazards that result in you falling overboard aren’t only due to your surrounding circumstances, they can come in the form of medical emergencies as well. Dehydration or unknown developing medical conditions can present themselves at unknown times and the time frame you are on the water is no exception. The auto inflate option is a nice feature and, in my opinion, should be utilized due to the added safety benefits it presents. If you are unconscious this feature can save your life.  
Pros:

1. Leaner design allowing more mobility
2. Auto inflate features on some makes and models

Cons:

1. Must have auto inflate feature on or could be ineffective if unconscious
2. Recommended to replace C02 cartridge annually
3. Inflatable compartment could be penetrated by sharp rocks or wood

Recommended Inflatables:
Onyx AM/24, Hobie Inflatable, Mustang MIT 70 Manual and Automatic
 
The Consensus
Either route you go having a PFD on is making your safety your priority and that’s the most important take away here. It’s not a bad idea to have both on hand also. I will often times use the vest style in colder water conditions just to add a little extra warmth but also the initial shock of cold water can be very overwhelming so in that event your mind and body may be distracted with that shock vs. remembering to pull a chord. Determine what is best for you and your needs and always remember to have it on when you leave the bank. You never know when you may find yourself in the drink.

Article by - Justin Patrick

If I could do a quick search to see how many times this question has been asked on social media, I would assume the number would be astronomical. Are they bedding yet? Every fishing enthusiast from every corner of the country anticipates the day their local lakes fish flock to the shorelines. It’s exciting times and an awesome opportunity to hook into a fish of a lifetime.

Is It Go Time Yet
They aren’t necessarily cut and dry, and personally I think we as fisherman tend to rush the spawn before they are ready. What do I mean? Here in the southeast region of the country, we can have very sporadic weather.
Starting in late February and early March we will begin to have short spurts of warm weather, followed by longer waves of cold weather and often flooding rain. Moving into late March and early April we’ll see longer warm spells with cold snaps thrown in the mix. Then finally in mid to late April we begin to see warm weather settle in for good. But what does all this do for the water temps and the spawn?
If you think about it, the shallows are mostly affected by these weather transitions. Backs of pockets and flats will fluctuate in temps which are text book areas where the bass want to do their thing. So, an example, on Pickwick Lake in the back of Indian creek the water temps will rise into the low 60’s after a week of warm weather, then a 40-degree cold snap hits lowering the water temps back into the 50’s.
As anglers we’re prone to see the temps barely hit the 60’s and we start looking for bedding bass. It’s all in good fun it’s just what we live for. The bass however, may not be ready that quick.

The Signs
If you’re ever having a tough day catching fish remember to look for bait. You can typically find some feeding bass nearby. I use this same approach when I start gauging the phase of the spawn. Shad will start migrating into the backs of pockets and right behind them are the bass. It’s the mobile food market. They are going to follow them. When I see bass busting shad on the flats that tells me they are feeding up before heading in to do their thing. This is a great time to catch a trophy fish also. They are feeding up and getting fat. Sometimes you may only see shad flickering around on the surface. That’s sometimes a sign that predators are underneath.
I would also suggest that when it’s getting closer to time you will begin to catch fish more related to cover. Bass will use the creek channels to move to the shallows. If you are still catching bass relating to the drop offs associated with the channels, then more than likely they aren’t ready yet or a cold front has pushed them back out. Once you start catching them on wood or other submerged cover that can be a good indication it’s on their radar.
When you are covering water don’t over look fan casting in random open water also. Use bait’s like lipless cranks, spinnerbaits, and bladed jigs to locate fish. Often, I find that burning and killing a lipless can be very productive.
 
Water Level/ Air Temps
This is where mother nature can speed up or slow down the bass' transition to spawn. Water levels and air temperatures need to stay at least somewhat consistent and not fluctuate drastically. Now bass aren’t like humans and will schedule a delivery date ahead of time to make sure they are comfortable. In my opinion when their body says its time it’s just time regardless of what the conditions are. Of course, moon phases and other circumstances can have influences on this as well. What you want to see is consistency though. When you start seeing morning water temps in the 60s coupled with consistent warmer days that's a good indication to start looking for bedding fish. If you are faced with a cold front some bass may still stay up shallow and others may back off a bit. You just have to get out there and look around to get a good gage on how frontal conditions have shaken things up. One of the biggest tale tale signs I like to look for are bass chasing off bait fish up near the bank. When you see that you can be rest assured those fish are up there guarding there beds. 
​
Let’s Do This Already
So, all the stars and planets have aligned, and the spawn is in full swing. Now it becomes a game of having some good polarized sun glasses and pulling out the sight fishing rigs. I’m not the biggest advocate for catching fish off beds but it can be a very exciting experience. Try bright colored soft plastics for your own visibility and I would recommend a Power Pole to keep you anchored while you work on getting those fish to bite. Bass don’t spawn all at once so remember to check those transition areas as well for pre spawners or post spawners moving back out. Most importantly have fun. See you out there!

​Article by - Justin Patrick

Over the last 6 years of competing in kayak tournaments both club level and national I can tell you I have probably spent more hours preparing for events than fishing them. To be fair I’m probably a little more OCD than others, but in my opinion, preparation requires a lot of attention, and how prepared you are can have a direct effect on your success. This is a topic I’ve been asked about before, so in this article I’m going to walk you through my process and a sort of guideline I follow to be as prepared as I can before setting out for an event.
Now, I break preparation down into 3 categories (lake study, travel organization, gear prep). It’s not all about making sure you have fresh line on and tying on your favorite baits. Honestly, I have gotten to a point where I won’t even tie on a single lure until I get out on the water sometimes. I’ll discuss my reasonings for that later, but the high-level gist of preparation is to gather as much information as you can to be as efficient as you can be on the water.

                                                                        It’s Never Too Early to Start
​Time. It’s the one thing some have more of than others, but the one absolute truth is time is ticking. The sooner you can start your prep the better off you’ll be and the less likely you are to forget a crucial component of your preparation.

Step 1 – Lake Study

Alright, I don’t want you guys to think that I always follow these steps in order of 1, 2, 3, but for all intents and purposes of this article we’ll break it down as such. Lake study, for me, is a combination of understanding the lay of the lake and all that is has to offer, as well as, gathering intel on what the seasonal pattern should be and discovering areas that offer the most opportunities for that specific pattern. I want you guys to understand 1 important thing though before we move forward. Every bit of information you gather in your prep should be used as just basic starting points. They should not be the “thing” that you’re going to do regardless. Remember, bass don’t follow rules, and they don’t care what the last tournament was won doing. Always gather your information with an open mind. You can really mess yourself up by listening to too much dock talk.

I like to start by getting on google earth and getting a good feel for the body of water and what kind of opportunities it presents. Keeping in mind what I think the seasonal pattern may be is going to be my guideline for what I’m looking for. In conjunction with this I’m going to be making mental notes of access points. I don’t want to get too excited about an area if there is no access point in proximity. More on access points later. In this step I’m not necessarily looking for where I’m going to fish, but more so how areas will set up for different weather behaviors. Decision making is a critical component of tournament fishing, and the first decision of the day is where you’re going to start. We’ve all had those conversations at night in the rental house with your travel partners about where your fishing the next day. It can literally stress you out but learning as much about the different areas of the lake and how they set up will make that decision not only easier but more educated.

Look for areas that offer back up plans. I will make my educated guess as to what the fish might be doing but I also don’t want to limit myself or lock myself into one thing. Depending on the body of water I will write off an area almost instantly if the area has only 1 thing going for it. While I have google earth pulled up looking at what lies on the surface I will also have my Garmin Active Captain app pulled up checking contour definition so I can see what also lies beneath the surface. I’m looking at everything and gaining an understanding of what all is going on with an area. Where the points are, the creek channels, the underwater humps, laydowns, visible vegetation, etc. I like to have a full understanding of where everything is so I can make quick adjustments while I’m out on the water. Everything you do before you get to the lake should be done in a way so that your more efficient out on the water. 8 hours in a tournament goes by quick so you don’t want to spend any of that precious time sitting still staring at your electronics looking for this or that. You want to know where it all is so you can just go straight to it.  

Sometimes your practice may indicate that you need to make 1 or multiple moves from one ramp to another in a days time. In this case you really need to have a full understanding of where everything is in those different areas. Loading up and moving takes a lot of time so knowing where your going once you get there will give you a few more casts throughout your day.

Step 2 – Travel Organization
​
Ever found yourself sitting at the ramp frantically searching for another ramp close by but your cell service keeps cutting out? Or how about its Friday night and your practice was terrible and now you’re lying in bed scrambling trying to find new ramp options for the morning when you could be benefiting from extra rest. This step is so easy, and it doesn’t take much time to do but will save you a world of headache in the long run. Throughout your research on google earth have your navigation app pulled up. I use google maps, so I just log into my google account. When I see a ramp on google earth, I go over to my google maps, find the location, and mark it under my favorites. This saves that location with a symbol you can see and just click on and your ready to navigate to it. No more wasted time at the ramp pulling up directions. Another thing you can do is save directions from one spot to another. This will give you saved directions you can still use even if you don’t have service. I would highly suggest doing this on those lakes that are out in the middle of nowhere by themselves. 

Of course here lately tournament directors have had to operate under strict guidelines to adhere to Covid 19 protocols  within various states, however, in a traditional setting the anglers usually are required to meet back at a certain location for check in by a certain time and have their fish submitted by a certain time. Sounds easy enough but I've heard of a few bad stories where anglers didn't have service and couldn't find there way back in enough time or also anglers didn't have service and couldn't upload their fish by cut off time. Staying organized with your travel and knowing where the closest towns are will give you back up options when situations arise that require immediate decisions. Spend some time getting to know the surrounding areas and where you may be able to go if you need cell service to upload. A big tip I can give you, and one your director most likely encourages as well, is to save your fish in your live well so you can quickly upload them later. Sometimes you catch enough service on the top of a hill and need to pull off real quick to upload. Having those fish in your virtual live well could be the difference maker in getting your fish submitted on time.

Step 3 - Gear Prep

Now, much of gear prep is conditional and circumstantial to the anglers style and load bearing desires. Some anglers take a small tackle box and a couple rods, while others may bring their entire tackle collection and every rod they own. Regardless of which style of angler you are there are a few important aspects of gear prep that will make your time on the water more efficient. Keep up with your equipment maintenance. Do a regular maintenance check on your gear. Check the guides on your rods to make sure they are all in tact and no inserts have come loose. I'll usually take a hose to my rods and reels after every other trip to wash the dirt and grime off. About 3 to 4 times a year I'll also re oil my reels to keep them running smoothly. The idea is to just stay on top of it throughout the year so you can eliminate the possibility of gear failure as much as possible. Another thing I like to do is go through my tackle boxes and make sure everything is organized. I usually do this at the start of the year. How you organize is up to you but it will save you a lot of time out on the water. 

I mentioned this a little earlier but don't always feel like you have to have all your rods rigged up with baits. If your familiar with the body of water or have put in recent time on the lake then of course have your rods rigged up, but if not then sometimes it can benefit you to wait till you get to the lake and see the conditions yourself before you make your lure and color choices. I speak about myself as well with this notion, but I think anglers are just as much tackle addicts as we are fishing enthusiasts. Our tackle rooms are our sanctuaries and our lures are our toys we like to rig up. I say that to say this. Pre conceived notions are the worst form of mind games that we play on ourselves. Tying on your favorite bait without knowing the conditions can hurt you. What happens is you get our there with your favorite bait and you just start throwing it without even taking into consideration if it's the best bait for the job. Get out to the lake and see what the conditions are then rig. Your choices will then be based on relevant info vs favorite selection. 

                                                                                            Follow Up
I feel like in this game you have to love everything about it. The entire grind. If you over look your preparation you are potentially setting yourself up for failure out on the water. The best anglers in the world don't become the best by just showing up and going fishing. They put in hours and hours into their preparation for each event. You don't have to do things my way, there's more than one way to skin a cat, but if you can find a way to better prepared for a tournament you may just find yourself cashing more checks. Hope these tips help and good luck out there.

Article by - Justin Patrick

March showers might bring may flowers, but they can also rise water levels quickly and face anglers with some challenging circumstances in locating and catching bass. One factor to consider that will likely dictate how fish react in these situations is water temperature. Often times, here in the southeast, winter temperatures can linger on into March and keep the water temps in the mid to low 40s. Other years we have seen early spring temps beginning to make their appearance in as early as late February creeping the water temps into the 50s. When you hit the water under high water levels first check your temps as this will be your ground work for where to start. ​The second part of this is water clarity. The influx of water and high winds will muddy the water up thus throwing in another challenge in your search.
​

Water Temps 40-50:
Before you hit the water under these circumstances do a real quick self check. The temptation is to grab the flipping stick and go up shallow. Can't deny, this is a viable option, but not always the only pattern at hand. Keep in mind, although the water levels are up and the brush is now accessible, it doesn't mean that every bass is going to make a mad dash for it. The fish that live shallow year round will of course move up into this cover, but a large percentage will also stay put where they were beforehand. Points, secondary points, channel bends, and rocky banks are still places you want to look at. In these areas the fish will simply move up in the water column vs making long hauls to the backs of creeks to get in brush. I like to start my search by finding the structure that has fallen timber, chunk rock, or combination of both. This type of cover will offer the fish current breaks, ambush points, and something to relate to in dirtier water. Work them with a jig, crankbait, or even a spinnerbait and be thorough. Make numerous casts from different angles and change up baits to offer different vibrations and pitches till you find what they want. If the cover is on a main lake point you can bet there are fish holding on it. Also don't shy away from working the structure itself. Bass know their surroundings and know how to feed in dirty water. If they can detect a shad swimming around in dirty water they can definitely detect your bait. Some of my best fish have come from 1 to 2 inches of visibility. 
Another place you want to look, and you'll need Google Earth for this one, are areas that are protected from the wind and typically stay cleaner when most of the lake is muddy. If you can locate a pocket off the main lake or in a main tributary that historically stays cleaner it's worth spending some time in. Fish will migrate to the cleaner water for sight feeding abilities. Don't immediately go to the very back, start by working the mouths of these pockets with crankbaits, chatter baits, and spinnerbaits. The fish that move into these areas are still lethargic and aren't very aggressive so look for your bites to be very subtle and keep your hooks sharp. 

​Water Temps 50-60:
Now early in the year around late March to early April is when we typically start seeing these water temps. A couple things are usually taking place that are worth considering before we get into the ins and outs on what to do. The fish are starting to exhibit transitional behaviors that elude us to the fact that the spawn is right around the corner. Also, with warmer water like this, the bass will be more aggressive and on the move a lot more. You need to consider how long has the water been up. Has it been a day, a couple days, or is it the next day after the big rain that your out on the water. If you are getting out on the water the day after a big rain, then you might want to start your search on those main lake and secondary points and start working back into the pockets until you locate where the fish are in their transition. You will want to work a more broad depth line when doing this because a lot of the fish will still be on that old bank line before the water came up. A Rapala DT 6 and DT 10 are good options. Vary your color based on water clarity. Brighter colors for dirtier water and more natural colors for cleaner water. Red craw colors can also be good when you have 1-2 ft. of visibility. 
Once you start getting later in the day and onto day 2 and 3 of the higher water conditions is when you will have more fish that move up shallow and get into the flooded brush. Stability is king with bass fishing, so the longer the water and weather changes are consistent, the more the fish will adjust to the new feeding patterns. Break out the heavy rod and big line and tie on your favorite flipping bait and go to work. I will offer that a Power Pole really comes into handy here. Flipping and pitching in a kayak can be challenging, especially when it's windy, but the Power Pole allows you the ability to anchor down with the push of a button and work your areas thoroughly without the interruption of readjusting your boat position constantly. I also like to keep a couple moving baits rigged up when fishing the flooded brush as well. I'll start by flipping the outside brush first then work the openings with either a swim jig, chatter bait, or square bill. One big tip I can offer you that will pay dividends is make sure you are retying often. Even with big line, your line takes a beating. You can use braid to avoid this as much, but if you use mono or fluorocarbon line it will get nicked up and fail on you when you least expect it.  Follow these guidelines but also keep an open mind and you'll be fine. 

Article written by Justin Patrick
Images taken by Justin Patrick